Often referred to as les trois corniches because of the three scenic roads that run between Nice and Monaco at different altitudes above sea level, this corner of the French Riviera is famous for its marvellous beauty and fascinating history. Among the things to see on the Côte d'Azur, just a stone's throw from the Italian border, there is a corner of France to be experienced with the carefree attitude of the protagonists of the films shot here.
Panoramic view of Monte Carlo, Monaco. ©S-F/Shutterstock
French Riviera, what to see on a tour of cinema and nature
In one of the most memorable sequences of Alfred Hitchcock's The Thief Hunt, Grace Kelly recklessly drives a blue convertible along a winding French Riviera road with an unflappable Cary Grant sitting in the passenger seat. The actress, with her blonde hairstyle, baby pink twin-set and scarf in the wind, is the embodiment of 1950s female glamour. At the end of the scene Cary Grant and Grace Kelly kiss at a vantage point above Monaco in the Principality. And it was in this small principality that Grace found her prince charming, Rainier of Monaco, whom she married in 1956 in what was called the 'marriage of the century'.
The sparkling blue sea, the glimpses of the coastline, the craggy cliffs and the splendid light of this stretch of Riviera continue to seduce travellers just as they did in Grace Kelly's time. The Grande Corniche, the highest of the three roads on the Côte d'Azur promontory, the one on which the famous chase takes place, was inaugurated by Napoleon in the early 19th century. Its route follows that of the Roman road that connected Rome with Provence. It is a spectacular car route with a succession of magnificent views.
Eze in France, what to see in the perched village of France
Below runs the Moyenne Corniche, built in the 1920s to relieve (even then!) traffic on the coastal road. Serpenting over scrub-covered slopes, it reaches the medieval village of Èze, an eagle's nest built on a rocky promontory 427 metres above sea level, a maze of cobbled lanes and breathtaking views. If you visit it out of season or stay overnight, you will be won over by its magical atmosphere.
Finally, there is the Basse Corniche, which skirts the Mediterranean via Villefranche-sur-Mer, a picture-postcard resort, and Beaulieu-sur-Mer, with its belle époque atmosphere. Here, at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century, wealthy Americans wintered, many of whom did not disdain a few trips to the casino, unaware that one day a Hollywood star would marry the Prince of Monaco.
View of the city of Nice, French Riviera, France. Luxury resort of French riviera ©MarinaDa/Shutterstock
The perfect holiday among the villages of the Côte d'Azur
The most magical place to stay is the Château Eza in Èze Village, where the map of the Côte d'Azur shines with wonder. Dating back four centuries, it was once the home of Prince William of Sweden. When the tourist crowds have gone, you will have the village to yourself and can enjoy the charming luxury of one of the hotel's twelve rooms, the most exclusive of which offer incredible views. But come there also just for a drink on the panoramic terrace or to have lunch while enjoying Michelin-starred Mediterranean cuisine.
Èze in France is always a good starting point for exploring the area. Beaulieu-sur-Mer, Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat and Villefranche-sur-Mer are ideal day-trip destinations along the Basse Corniche to discover the map of the Côte d'Azur: visit the curious Villa Kerylos in Beaulieu and the extraordinary Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild in Cap-Ferrat, and relax in the azure waters of Villefranche.
The next day visit the Principality of Monaco, with the Prince's Palace, the beautiful aquarium and a myriad of luxurious yachts and sports cars. In the evening, there is only one place to go: the legendary Casino de Monte-Carlo.
Nice, what to see and what to visit in the heart of the Côte d'Azur
In the other direction, Nice is a concentration of Mediterranean delights. Spend the morning at the Cours Saleya market and enjoy lunch on the beach. What to see in Nice in a day? Easier said than done, because there are too many things to discover that one day cannot be enough. Then wander around Vieux-Nice, the charming old town, and end the day in one of the city's many bars and restaurants. Finally, don't forget to rent a car to drive along the Grande Corniche, which runs 600 m above the coast. Don't try to stop to take pictures; instead, go to the Trophée des Alpes, a Roman monument in La Turbie, or to the Parc Naturel Départemental de la Grande Corniche, where the views are magnificent in every direction and the sea in Nice is revealed in all its beauty.
The village of Èze, on the Côte d'Azur corniche. ©Lottie Davies/Lonely Planet
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On the Côte d'Azur between beaches and villages
If you have had enough of glamour and feel like putting on your hiking shoes, you're in luck: the Riviera is criss-crossed by hundreds of kilometres of enchantingly scenic trails and holidays on the Côte d'Azur take on a whole new flavour. Given the morphology of the area, some are steep and strenuous, but many are not at all difficult: among them, the Sentier du Littoral, which follows the coast from Cap-d'Ail to Menton, with a break in Monaco (a stretch easily covered by bus), and the loop around Cap-Ferrat, refuge of many millionaires. More challenging are the hikes in the hills around La Turbie and Èze. Consult the excellent Guide RandOxygène Pays Côtier for a complete picture of the possibilities.