I first visited Townsville and Magnetic Island (Maggie) about 10 years ago when some sailing-mad friends chose to get married there. After a lovely Saturday night wedding on Maggie, I remember walking through Townsville’s deserted, hosed-down Sunday morning streets and thinking there wasn’t much to the city beyond backpackers and cowboys.
But the city has changed – and perhaps I have too. Townsville has long been a significant military base (during the second world war Magnetic Island served as a popular spot for service personnel on leave), one reason it does not have the obvious tourist appeal of Cairns or the Sunshine Coast. But there is plenty to do in the city – which offers events as varied as the Castrol Edge Townsville V8 meet and the Australian Festival of Chamber Music – and on Magnetic Island, a 20-minute ferry ride away.
With its abundance of hiking trails and stunning beaches, Magnetic Island is a nature lover's paradise. The island's 24km of walking trails wind through its national park, offering breathtaking vistas and opportunities for exploration.
The snorkeling and diving experiences on Magnetic Island are truly exceptional, especially for beginners looking to immerse themselves in the vibrant marine life. The crystal-clear waters and diverse underwater ecosystem make it a must-visit destination for anyone seeking an underwater adventure.
Contrary to its name, Magnetic Island does not possess any literal magnetic properties. The captivating name was given by James Cook himself after his ship's compass malfunctioned while passing by the island. This fascinating anecdote adds a touch of intrigue to the island's already captivating allure.
If you're planning a trip to Magnetic Island, the highlights can be enjoyed within 48 hours. However, we recommend extending your stay by a night or two to fully embrace the relaxed island lifestyle and make the most of all the activities and experiences the region has to offer.
Introducing Rambutan in Townsville, known as Australia's first 'glampackers' destination.
One of the major highlights of this place is a peaceful koala named Thor. Thor's exclusive diet of eucalyptus leaves has given him a uniquely relaxed appearance.
First Day: Exploring the city
Given Townville's close proximity to Sydney (a plane ride under three hours), visitors can easily start a warm getaway from the city's hustle and bustle. Visiting the renowned Rambutan, located on Flinders Street, comes highly recommended. This unique establishment is the first "glampackers" in Australia.
This stylish accommodation isn't limited to just backpackers, it also caters to families with king-sized rooms (starting from $119) and provides housing for travellers with mobile vans (uncovered site starts at $34). It is a vibrant hub, offering dorm beds in a co-ed room (starting from $30). The ground floor also houses a welcoming swimming pool and a spacious bar and eatery. They serve a menu filled with dishes that draw inspiration from Latin American cuisines.
After a quick lunch, we tour the city. During the second world war, Townsville was Australia’s most important air base, and Castle Hill, the highest point in Townsville, served as a lookout. During the war, the Americans contemplated levelling Castle Hill and using the rock to create a direct route to Magnetic Island. Fortunately it didn’t happen, and the hill, which is only one metre shy of being classified a mountain, affords spectacular views. There are a number of walking tracks that take more or less 40 minutes to reach the top, and judging by the power walkers marching up the side, it’s clearly a local favourite.
The gnomes of Court Yard diner in Townsville’s City Lane arcade.
There are also plenty of locals strolling along the Strand foreshore, a 2km seaside promenade winding from the army museum to Memorial Park. It’s a pleasant sunset walk, particularly while enjoying an artisanal ice-cream from Juliette’s.
Just beyond the Strand is Jupiter’s Casino, recently bought by tourism tycoon Chris Morris, despite being the worst performing casino in Australia. Morris reportedly plans to rename it the Ville and give it a $20m makeover in the hope of making it a stepping stone in his Queensland tourism empire.
After dinner at the very popular Courtyard in City Lane, we spend the night at the Grand on Palmer, one of several hotels grouped together on Palmer Street, across the Ross river and with easy access to the CBD. The self-contained one-bedroom apartment with kitchen and laundry facilities costs about $160 a night. It’s wasted on us on our quick overnight stop, but it would be a comfortable base to explore the region.
Exploring Magnetic Island on the Second Day
Steeled by a safety briefing that was quite intense, I summon the courage to navigate the colossal water vessel myself.
With only a 20-minute ferry ride separating us from the mainland (return tickets for adults are priced at $32, and for kids starting at $8), we set foot on Magnetic Island. Covering approximately 52 sq km of undulating national wilderness encapsulated by golden shores, the island is teeming with activity even early in the day. Nelly Bay terminal is ever buzzing as a large number of people disembark, an indication of Magnetic Island's hefty population. While roughly 2,000 locals reside here all year round, this figure drastically increases during the months of April through to November, which are particularly popular with tourists. According to the official tourism data, it boasts of more sunny days than any other place in Queensland - an impressive average of 320 annually!
For an amusing and distinctive method of navigating the island, consider exchanging conventional cars for one of the convertible vehicles offered by Tropical Topless Car Rentals. These open-top vehicles are a breeze to operate and plus, if you receive a vibrant pink model like ours, spotting it in the lot will be a trouble-free task.
Horseshoe Bay acts as the island's bustling center, being a region loaded with elegant palm trees and crystalline blue waters that gently sweep the shorelines, offering a perfect backdrop for either swimming or merely unwinding with a beer in hand as the sun sets into the horizon.
Amid our enjoyable times, we savored an unconventional breakfast while in the company of the koalas at the Bungalow Bay Koala Village. Equipped with a plate filled with eggs, bacon, traditional jaffles, a glass of juice and champagne, both adventurous backpackers and delighted families get to interact with the local reptiles, including a drowsy snake. Not to forget, the main star of this breakfast - a calm koala named Thor - steals everyone's attention. Due to his diet of eucalyptus leaves, Thor often sports a lethargic look, giving every tourist a memorable photo opportunity.
Finding ourselves satiated from a hearty helping of nachos at the Mexican hotspot Noodies on the Beach, we then delightfully peruse the weekend market's eclectic offerings ranging from whimsical jewellery, vibrant tie-dyed apparel, to the soothing melody of wind chimes.
While Magnetic Island exudes a subtle allure, the more discerning will find Peppers Blue on Blue at 123 Sooning Street, Nelly Bay, fitting their tastes perfectly. Infused with a dash of luxury, this resort also features an exquisitely curated à la carte menu for its patrons. As night falls and we settled into our accommodations, our appetites led us to the restaurant. My selection of the evening was the succulent barramundi paired with prawns and a hint of bisque; on the other hand, my companion savoured the tender eye fillet steak. The culinary journey concluded with delectable desserts - the fusion of coconut and kaffir lime in the panna cotta and the intricately balanced gorgonzola dolce paired with blistered grapes, honey drizzle, and lavosh standing out. A satisfying meal here would set you back about $150, excluding wine.
The spectacular views from the fort walk.
Day 3: Embark on a Historical Walk, Enjoy Water Sports and Savour a Sophisticated Dinner
Kick off your day with breakfast at your accommodation, then get ready for an adventure even under the grey skies. It's time to embark on the 4km fort walk on Magnetic Island. This area held critical importance during World War II due to its strategic location on the east coast, monitoring activities for allied forces. There were originally two observation posts overlooking the bay from the vantage position on the hilltop. Today, several structures and artillery placements have disappeared but two sturdy concrete forts continue their silent watch. Although they may not be architectural marvels, their stunning panoramas more than compensate, offering incredible vistas stretching to Palm Island in the north and down to Bowling Green Bay National Park in the south. The engaging history and breathtaking views make the moderately challenging 90-minute hike to the summit absolutely worthwhile. Also, keep a vigilant eye as you roam; who knows you might spot a koala, the regular inhabitants of this area.
Experience the thrilling Lorikeets feeding time at Bungalow Bay resort, a captivating activity that allows you to observe these colorful birds up close. As they flutter around, enjoy the mesmerizing sight and learn more about their behavior.
For the adventurous souls, head to Horseshoe Bay, Magnetic Island's action hub, and embark on an exhilarating Adrenalin jetski tour. After a safety briefing that will get your heart racing, you'll find yourself piloting one of these massive watercraft. Feel the rush of adrenaline as you bound across the waves, following your guide and trying to keep up with the other jetskis in the group.
Amidst the excitement, keep an eye out for the magnificent marine life that inhabits these waters. While you may not spot whales or turtles on this occasion, the awe-inspiring views of Magnetic Island and the surge of adrenaline running through your veins will more than make up for it.
As the sun begins its descent, wind down at Sandi's with a delectable bucket of prawns and refreshing beer, an ideal way to soak in the island vibes. The idyllic Marlin bar presents the perfect setting to bask in the evening atmosphere, watching the sun paint vivid hues across the sky.
Our stay begins at the homely and family-approved Bungalow Bay Resort, a favored resting spot among the island's nomadic souls. The resort caters to various lodging preferences including camping and cozy A-frame wooden bungalows, some equipped with private bathrooms (starting at $95 per night), emerging from the local bushland. Early bird Happy Hours enliven the scene with $5 pints and $10 exquisite cocktails. Especially fascinating is the spectacle of resort staff hand-feeding a myriad of vibrant lorikeets, a show which brings an undeniable sparkle to the eyes of young visitors. Our day continues with a leisurely stroll to the serene Horseshoe Bay.
As evening falls, we find ourselves lured back by the Mexican charm of Noodies on the Beach. The hospitable service and the prospect of tasty fajitas captivate us. What entices a fun-filled ambience is the restaurant's unique offering of complimentary sombreros along with jugs of cocktails. Despite abstaining, we cherish the playful atmosphere as we observe our fellow patrons grow their amusing hat collection.
Horseshoe Bay on Magnetic Island.
A Culinary Adventure on Magnetic Island
Indulge your taste buds with a delightful breakfast experience on Magnetic Island at the renowned Early Bird cafe. Be prepared to be amazed by the flavorful creations brought to you by a passionate young Italian couple who have turned this once Nan's Tea Room into a vibrant culinary hotspot.
As you peruse their extensive tea menu, I highly recommend pairing your morning cravings with a warm croissant infused with Nutella, an irresistible combination. Alternatively, if you have an appetite for something more hearty, their baked eggs with chorizo and hot buttered toast will surely satisfy your cravings.
During our visit, my companion and I savored our chosen dishes, accompanied by fragrant Earl Grey tea for me and excellent coffee for my companion. The thoughtful attention to detail and the mouthwatering aromas wafting through the air made this breakfast experience unforgettable.
While relishing in the flavors, it's worth noting that this delectable breakfast came at a reasonable price, totaling approximately $36 - a true bargain for the quality of food and the vibrant atmosphere offered by the Early Bird cafe on Magnetic Island.
Embark on this gastronomic journey and prepare to be enchanted by the fusion of flavors and warm hospitality found at the Early Bird cafe on Magnetic Island.
Upon our return to Townsville, our journey directed us to the Museum of Tropical Queensland, an attraction which brings in adults for $15 and children for a mere $8.80. This museum, a quintessential representation of the regional culture, is bustling with schoolchildren on educational excursions, providing a valuable insight into the peculiarities of the tropical terrain. Where else can one encounter an exhibit that opens up the mind to the diversity of coral species found in this region? Added to that is a simulated experience of a dive deep into the Great Barrier Reef. An extra highlight is a captivating display centered around the tragic sinking of the HMS Pandora, the vessel dispatched by the royal navy to apprehend Fletcher Christian's rebellion on the HMS Bounty in 1790. Following its successful mission in Tahiti in 1791 to round up the defiant sailors, the ship ironically met its demise on its homeward journey, running aground on the Great Barrier Reef. This lead to the unfortunate death of thirty-one crew members and four prisoners held below decks.
Our last meal took place at the Brewery, a local gem in Townsville. This unique establishment is a transformed old post office and the birthplace of Townsville Bitter, an authentic local beer. Owing to its rich lineage, my friend, a beer aficionado opted for the distinctive beer sampler along with his main course. At merely $12, the sampler offers great value as it includes eight generous tasting portions. He enjoyed a hearty beef pie ($18), sided with mushy peas, that complemented his beer selection. On the other hand, I selected the staple fish and chips ($18), a popular meal choice in Townsville. The overall quality of the food was impressive; it was top-notch pub-style food that was worth the price.