Exploring Seoul is like stepping into a captivating maze filled with hidden wonders and cultural treasures. Award-winning filmmaker Bong Joon-ho, known for his innovative storytelling, led me through the city's enchanting streets, unleashing his imagination with every step.
Diving into a passageway, Bong Joon-ho's eyes lit up, fascinated by the vintage '70s tiles adorning a doorway. As we descended further, the narrow alley revealed itself, characterized by its uneven brick walls, lively tangles of electrical wires, and laundry gently swaying in the breeze. With excitement, Bong Joon-ho envisioned thrilling chase scenes unfold, urging him to capture these vibrant spaces before they vanish.
As rewarding as this sensory exploration is, the city of Seoul is not only about its enchanting streets. It also offers a wide range of accommodations for visitors, to really make the city feel like a home away from home. To enhance your travel experience, consider booking your stay at one of the various Hotels in Seoul on www.seoulhotelspage.com.
As the director behind acclaimed films like "Snowpiercer," a dystopian masterpiece, and "The Host," featuring a man-eating river monster set in Seoul, Bong Joon-ho's perspective on the city is far from ordinary. His unique take challenged my prior experience of Seoul during a rainy autumn, leaving me yearning for a deeper understanding of this bustling metropolis.
With a population exceeding 25 million, Seoul sprawls as an immense urban area, impossible to comprehend as a singular entity. Standing atop the N Seoul Tower, perched on an 800-foot hill and reaching 777 feet into the sky, the city stretches out endlessly, only halted by the encircling mountains. Looking down, countless variations of Seoul come into view, each waiting to be discovered and explored.
Embarking on this journey, I realized that Seoul is a city of endless possibilities, a multifaceted gem with a myriad of stories to unravel and experiences to embrace.
Exploring Seoul's contemporary culture goes beyond the well-known TV shows and K-pop videos that have gained international popularity. To truly immerse myself in the city's creative energy, I sought out native insiders who have made significant contributions in their respective fields. This diverse group included Shin Kyung-sook, a renowned novelist; Juyoung Lee, a talented fashion designer; Kim Sehwang, a musician; and Mr. Bong.
Each of these individuals graciously shared their unique perspectives on Seoul by introducing me to places that held special meaning to them. One took me to a captivating museum, another to their workplace, and the remaining two to their favorite neighborhoods. Through their eyes, I was able to experience different facets of the city, carefully curated by these creative forces.
For our meeting, Mr. Bong, known for his global outlook, chose a rendezvous point in Itaewon. As I made my way through the sloping streets of this vibrant neighborhood, I passed a variety of establishments, including gay and transgender bars, as well as an increasing number of Middle Eastern restaurants. Itaewon is a melting pot where different cultures coexist, and its diversity is reflected in its cuisine and nightlife.
In Itaewon, one can enjoy an impressive dinner at Itaewon-ro No. 27, either for a date or a business gathering, or visit Nigerian Alley to conveniently have a cell phone set up even after regular business hours. These side streets attract both expatriates seeking a taste of home and the hardworking remittance class, showcasing the neighborhood's eclectic mix of people and lifestyles. On my way to meet Mr. Bong, I passed by the Seoul Central Mosque, a striking landmark situated atop a hill where Itaewon converges with the Hannam neighborhood. This beautiful mosque with its dome and twin minarets serves as a symbol of religious diversity in Korea, catering to the country's small Muslim community.
By exploring the city through the eyes of these remarkable individuals, I discovered a Seoul that is both globally influenced and locally rooted. From captivating museums to vibrant neighborhoods, this journey allowed me to see the multitude of stories that intertwine to form the rich tapestry of Seoul's contemporary culture.
As the sun set behind us, overlooking a mesmerizing view of the city, my companion couldn't help but express his awe. He pointed out how this particular part of Seoul epitomizes the diverse and disjointed nature of a city without a strong sense of continuity. With his hands forming a makeshift frame, he drew my attention towards the captivating layers that unfolded before us.
The foreground showcased charming old houses, while further in the distance stood a church steeple—a common sight in a country where Christianity thrives. Beyond them, the Han River flowed effortlessly, surrounded by countless towering skyscrapers that seemed immeasurable. "In just a few years, these old houses will vanish," he remarked, emphasizing the relentless cycle of destruction and reconstruction that defines the essence of this city.
Amidst the echoing call to prayer, Mr. Bong guided me away from the bustling mosque and onto the narrow path of Usadan-ro No. 10. The businesses we encountered along the way seemed to fall into three distinct categories. First, there were timeless specialty shops, seemingly untouched by the passage of time, offering everything from haberdashery to hardware, maintaining their nostalgic charm. Secondly, we came across more recent culinary spots, where kosher Korean cuisine and Turkish kebabs tantalized taste buds. Finally, we glimpsed the neighborhood's newest additions, including a trendy wine bar, a vibrant juice bar, an artistic tattoo studio doubling as an art gallery named Soul Ink, and a sleek clothing shop offering a monochromatic palette. A local café even caught my eye with a name that roughly translated to "maybe we're open today," and the friendly barista informed me that their two fluffy white Samoyeds, Cloud and Storm, occasionally "work part time." The remarkable aspect of this neighborhood was its uncanny ability to embrace change without tipping the scales toward unbridled gentrification. "Everything blends organically here," Mr. Bong explained.
We ventured further down the lane, eventually arriving at Aoi Sora, a uniquely shaped triangular bar. Mr. Bong informed me that this establishment specializes in daytime drinking, closing its doors at the surprisingly early hour of 7 p.m. As we settled inside, the faint light from a single large square window illuminated our surroundings. Mr. Bong ordered a delectable dish of clams in their shells, accompanied by a bottle of clear alcohol infused with a twisting ginseng root—an off-menu creation from the talented bartender, who also happened to teach traditional booze-making during his free time. Sipping from delicate ceramic cups, Mr. Bong continued to unveil the evolving nature of his beloved city, remarking that every alleyway we passed held its own unique story.
Seoul, a city of constant change and rapid transformation, offers a unique experience unlike any other. Renowned novelist, Ms. Shin, aptly describes Seoul as a city where meeting a friend at the same place after a year is a rarity, as there is always something new cropping up. This constant evolution is what fuels the dynamism and energy of the city, making it a thriving hub of innovation and progress.
In her bestselling novel, "Please Look After Mom," Ms. Shin explores the clash between generations against the backdrop of Seoul. The protagonist, an old woman from the countryside, gets lost in the ever-changing cityscape after reaching the central train station. This tale serves as a metaphor for the societal transformations and challenges faced by Seoul's inhabitants.
However, beyond the frenetic pace of development, Seoul also offers moments of tranquillity amidst its parks, greenways, palaces, and museums. At the Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art, visitors can escape the city's hustle and immerse themselves in a serene atmosphere. This museum showcases Korean art spanning centuries, alongside contemporary works by both local talents and international luminaries.
During my visit to the museum with Ms. Shin, we explored the Mario Botta-designed wing, dedicated predominantly to traditional art, while other sections were envisioned by renowned architects Jean Nouvel and Rem Koolhaas. Just before opening, the museum exuded a sense of calm, setting the stage for a reflective and enlightening experience.
The first remarkable object that caught our attention was a delicate celadon ewer dating back to the 13th century. Its intricate design, displaying a raised-relief lotus pattern, was illuminated under a soft spotlight, creating a translucent appearance. During the Goryeo dynasty, Korean artisans mastered the art of creating this pale-green pottery, adopting the Chinese technique and refining it to the extent that today, Korean celadon is considered one of the most exceptional ceramics ever produced.
With our knowledgeable guide providing insights, we also had the privilege of utilizing advanced digital tools. Unlike traditional museum audio guides, these contemporary touch-screen devices were lightweight and engaging, allowing us to interact with the exhibits. With a simple touch, the screen would display high-resolution images of the objects accompanied by informative descriptions. In awe of a captivating blue-and-white porcelain jar from the 15th century, I became so engrossed in the digital display that I momentarily lost track of my group.
However, the true highlight of our visit was a mesmerizing 18th-century porcelain vessel known as a moon jar. Standing at a height of one-and-a-half feet, this rotund white jar seemed to defy gravity as it appeared to float above its pedestal in ethereal lighting. Drawing attention was a jagged stain, reminiscent of an abstract painter's stroke, created by oil that had once resided within the vessel. According to Ms. Shin, the jar's unique qualities evoked images of a mountain, a pregnant woman, or a woman in a hanbok, the traditional voluminous Korean dress, flowing in the wind.
Exploring the vibrant city of Seoul, one cannot help but be captivated by its unique blend of energy and tranquility. For artist Lee, a visit to a jar provides solace amidst the bustling metropolis, offering a sense of serenity in times of stress. In fact, the jar serves as a profound inspiration, shaping her artistic endeavors as she aspires to craft sentences as exquisite as the renowned moon jar.
While Ms. Lee expresses her admiration for the jar's aesthetics, it is the remarkable oil stain that truly captivates her. Symbolizing the passage of time, she recognizes the stain as a testament to the interplay between history and nature, untouched by human hands.
Within the renowned Gangnam district, beloved by K-pop sensation Psy, Ms. Lee extends an invitation to her showroom. This neighborhood, with a relatively brief modern history dating back to 1988, when the first McDonald's in South Korea opened its doors, has evolved into a global symbol of luxury. It serves as the foundation for renowned fashion labels like Jinteok and Bakangchi, contributing to Seoul Fashion Week's glamour along the stretch of Samseong-ro.
Amidst the glitz and glamour, Ms. Lee's own brand, Resurrection, takes its place, a testament to the vibrant and burgeoning Korean fashion industry. With its unique fusion of tradition and modernity, Seoul continues to inspire and nurture artistic endeavors throughout the city.
Meet Ms. Lee, a highly talented and accomplished fashion designer who effortlessly blends tradition with avant-garde style. Following in the footsteps of her mother, who is also a designer, Ms. Lee creates breathtaking neo-Gothic garments that have even caught the attention of international celebrities like Marilyn Manson.
One fascinating encounter that epitomizes Ms. Lee's audacity and artistic vision occurred when Marilyn Manson visited Seoul a decade ago. After delivering some of her clothes to the concierge at his hotel, Ms. Lee received a surprising call from Mr. Manson himself, requesting more of her unique creations. Captured by his captivating and grotesque beauty, she considers him to be one of her most influential muses.
When I recently visited Ms. Lee's Resurrection showroom, I was immediately struck by the mesmerizing atmosphere. As she sat on a plush velvet chair, radiating confidence with her streaked magenta hair, the showroom felt like an ethereal sanctuary. Adorned with captivating crosses, an altar-like arrangement of red candles, and a striking red wall, the space perfectly complemented the avant-garde pieces made from sheer fabrics, synthetic furs, and leather - a striking tribute to the legacy of the late Alexander McQueen.
What sets Ms. Lee apart from others in the high-end fashion industry is her penchant for designing primarily for men, though her creations are equally adored by women. As models resembling futuristic vampires gracefully strut down the runway, Ms. Lee effortlessly challenges traditional notions of gender fashion. She even showcased a unique men's sleeve garter inspired by women's garter belts, flawlessly uniting masculine and feminine elements.
Blending the best of East and West, Ms. Lee's designs are a hybrid of influences. Her love for black and leather, a reflection of her Western experiences studying at Parsons School of Design in New York, is now imbued with a newfound appreciation for her Korean heritage. By seamlessly integrating both her cultural background and international exposure, Ms. Lee creates strikingly innovative designs that captivate audiences worldwide.
Walking through a bustling rack of clothing, she elegantly presented a striking brocade jacket in shades of gold, red, and black. This exquisite silk fabric, once reserved for hanbok, was skillfully crafted by her mother, passing down generations of traditional knowledge. To complement her collection, she proudly showcased a men's jacket with an intricately embroidered swan pattern, a testament to her dedication to blend Korean heritage with contemporary design.
Interacting with various artists in Seoul, I discovered their unique perspective on the city's relentless evolution. While they didn't explicitly emphasize the point, their creations beautifully intertwined history and Seoul's vibrant essence. During a delightful lunch at a bustling restaurant named Nunnamujip, we dined upstairs with a captivating street view, surrounded by walls adorned with signatures of celebrities. Delicacies like succulent marinated beef ribs (dok kalbi), kimchi-infused tofu, North Korean dumplings, and savory spicy rice cake sticks (dok boki) filled the table, ensuring a feast fit for aficionados of traditional cuisine.
As we discussed the neighborhood of Samcheong, Kim Sehwang, an acclaimed guitarist, and his longtime friend, movie producer Jimi Nam, recounted their nostalgic memories. Samcheong once stood as a quaint, romantic district, seeing its revival around a decade ago, transforming into a fashionable hotspot. Unique to Samcheong are its hanok, traditional wooden-framed houses with gracefully curved tiled roofs, which have been preserved and repurposed into delightful shops, teahouses, and charming restaurants. The gentle, arched eaves adorn the stair-step passageways that gracefully ascend from Samcheong-ro, the main road, inviting exploration and enchantment.
As a young boy, Mr. Kim would frequently visit a local noodle soup restaurant with his mother. And even now, when he is with his wife, they enjoy exploring the neighborhood's cafes and restaurants together. One such restaurant, Sujebi, where he and his mother used to go, still stands today, bustling with more than a dozen patrons eagerly waiting outside.
When Mr. Nam first visited Samcheong in 2004, he was hesitant, but Park Chan-wook, the director of "Oldboy," assured him that the neighborhood was undergoing a transformation. Now, although he doesn't frequent Samcheong often, when he has a new movie to promote, he reserves an entire cafe in the neighborhood to host the media.
Our neighborhood tour concluded with refreshing iced drinks at a sunlit cafe. With open windows and a gentle breeze playing with our napkins, we immersed ourselves in the vibrant ambiance. Strolling along the sidewalk, we observed Seoulites passing by glass storefronts and traditional tiled rooftops, witnessing the seamless fusion of old and new architecture. Mr. Kim gazed up and down the street, expressing his desire to visit this captivating place more frequently.
If You Go
Restaurants to Visit
Aoi Sora: Located at 79-1 Usadan-ro No. 10-gil, Yongsan-gu, this restaurant can be reached at 82-70-4217-1977.
Nunnamujip: Situated at 136-1 Samcheong-ro, Jongno-gu, you can contact them at 82-2-739-6742.
Sujebi: Found at 101-1 Samcheong-ro, Jongno-gu, their contact number is 82-2-735-2965.
Places to Explore in Seoul
If you find yourself in Seoul, there are several must-visit attractions that should be on your list.
One of these is The Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art, located at 60-16 Itaewon-ro No. 55-gil, Yongsan-gu. This prestigious museum showcases a diverse range of artworks, offering visitors a glimpse into the world of contemporary and traditional Korean art. The museum's website, leeum.samsungfoundation.org/html_eng/global/main.asp, provides more information about its collections and exhibitions.
For breathtaking panoramic views of the city, head to N Seoul Tower at 105 Namsangongwon-gil, Yongsan-gu. This iconic landmark offers observation decks and revolving restaurants to admire Seoul's skyline. Check out nseoultower.co.kr/eng to plan your visit.
Another remarkable landmark is the Seoul Central Mosque situated at 39 Usadan-ro No. 10-gil, Yongsan-gu. This mosque serves as an important religious and cultural center for the Muslim community in South Korea. To learn more about this beautiful mosque, visit their website koreaislam.org/en/mainpage.
Art enthusiasts should not miss out on Resurrection by Juyoung Lee, an art gallery located at 742 Samseong-ro, 2nd floor, Gangnam-gu. This gallery showcases the unique artistry of Juyoung Lee. Discover more about this captivating space at resurrectionbyjuyoung.com.
Seoul is a vibrant city with countless attractions that cater to various interests. Captivate your wanderlust and explore this dynamic metropolis!
Elisabeth Eaves, the author of “Wanderlust: A Love Affair With Five Continents,” inspires readers with her remarkable travel experiences and adventure stories.