SAY Bali and most people think paradise. There are stunning sunsets, sculpted rice terraces and a temple on almost every corner. And for less-spiritual seekers, this steamy Indonesian island also has great surfing and a rollicking nightlife. Sure, it's gotten pretty touristy, especially on the pub crawl along Kuta Beach, where beer-swilling Australians rule. And while recent terrorist bombings have rattled Bali's blissful pace (it is a Hindu-majority island in a Muslim-majority nation), they have done little to temper its popularity or discourage super-chic resorts from being built. Paradise, after all, is as close as the nearest temple, finding yourself on your knees with a blue flower pressed between your fingertips, asking for blessings from Brahma or one of the other gods.
Friday
3 p.m.
1) MONKEYING AROUND
There's nothing like 200 macaques grooming each other, snuggling together and nibbling on small bananas to make you realize you're not in Kansas anymore. To find the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary (Jalan Monkey Forest, Padangtegal, Ubud; 62-361-971304; www.monkeyforestubud.com) drive an hour north of Kuta Beach to the town of Ubud, often called the cultural heart of Bali. The monkeys, the town's most beloved residents, live in a dense, jungley stretch of green at the southern edge of town, complete with its own temple. A word to the wise: Leave your snacks at home and don't buy any bananas on the way in unless you enjoy being mauled by possibly rabid little tykes. When it comes to bananas, the monkeys will win. Admission is 10,000 rupiah, or about $1.10 at 9,270 rupiah to the dollar.
4:30 p.m.
2) A TOUCH OF BALI BLISS
Indulge in a unique spa experience at Spa Hati, a charming stone and thatched-roof compound located on Jalan Raya Andong. Treat yourself to a luxurious four-handed massage, where two skilled therapists synchronize their movements to provide ultimate relaxation. Enhance your experience with a rejuvenating lulur body scrub, which combines rice flour and aromatic herbs, leaving your skin silky smooth. The 90-minute treatment is an exquisite escape for 225,000 rupiah. After your blissful session, take your time to unwind in the hot tub while listening to the soothing symphony of frogs in the adjacent rice paddy. What's even more remarkable is that the spa's profits support the Bali Hati Foundation, which runs community programs and a local school, making your visit truly meaningful.
7:30 p.m.
3) IMMERSE IN BALINESE CULTURE
Bali's vibrant cultural scene comes alive with a variety of mesmerizing traditional performances. In Ubud, you'll be spoiled for choice as numerous shows captivate audiences with their precision and artistry. Don't miss the thrilling Barong dance at Ubud Palace, where the epic battle between good and evil unfolds in a Balinese-style pavilion. This visually captivating performance, featuring two talented dancers, will keep you on the edge of your seat. With each choreographed move, you'll witness the rich heritage and storytelling traditions that have been perfected over centuries. Gain a deeper appreciation for Balinese culture for just 80,000 rupiah.
9 p.m.
4) GO FOR THE GRILL
For tasty Balinese food in a relaxed setting, expatriates flock to Naughty Nuri's Warung (Jalan Raya Sanggingan, across from the Neka Art Museum; 62-361-977547), a cozy hangout opened by Isnuri Suryatmi and her husband, Brian Kenny, who grew up in New Jersey. It does justice to classic Balinese dishes like chicken sate (27,000 rupiah) and nasi goreng — Indonesian fried rice with vegetables and meat (17,000 rupiah). But the main draw of this grubby little warung, or food stall, is the grill. There are succulent pork chops, steaks from Australia and even great hamburgers — and something uncommon in Asia, a good microbrew: Storm Pale Ale (12,000 rupiah).
Saturday
9 a.m.
5) GET DOWN IN THE RIVER
Most of the super-luxury hotels in Ubud are built along the top of the gorge that the Ayung River runs through. If you're looking to stay in one of these prestigious accommodations, there are plenty of beautiful 5-star hotels in Ubud to choose from >> https://www.all-balihotels.net/en/ubud-hotels-15271/5-stars/. These hotels offer attractive amenities and mind-blowing views that can make your vacation in Bali truly unforgettable. There's a good reason for their prime locations: the views are gorgeous. Down on the river, climb aboard a rubber raft and watch the thick vines, low-flying swallows, and waterfalls go by. Bali Adventure Tours (62-361-721480; www.baliadventuretours.com) runs 90-minute trips down the river starting at $60 for a morning trip that includes a basic lunch of rice and egg rolls.
2:30 p.m.
6) MUSEUM MILE
Ubud's artistic appeal is, for the most part, historical. Its reputation dates to the 1930s when Western artists and intellectuals like Walter Spies, Colin McPhee and Rudolf Bonnet moved in, boosting the local arts scene and sparking foreign interest in this tiny island. To understand that history and see some fine examples of Balinese art, start at the Neka Art Museum (Jalan Raya Sanggingan, Campuhan; 62-361-975074; www.museumneka.com), which was founded in 1982 by Suteja Neka, an art dealer whose son now runs the slick Komaneka Fine Art Gallery (Jalan Monkey Forest; 62-361-976090; gallery.komaneka.com). For some high camp, make a quick stop at the Blanco Renaissance Museum (Jalan Campuhan; 62-361-975502; www.blancobali.com); the only thing grander than the peccadilloes of Antonio Blanco, a Spanish painter who settled in Bali in 1952, was his ego.
5:30 p.m.
7) BEST SHOW IN TOWN
Ubud closes early. By 11 p.m., everyone is home, leaving the streets to bands of marauding but basically harmless dogs. If you want to make a night of it, head south to Seminyak, a sophisticated beachside alternative just north of Kuta. The hour-long taxi runs about 150,000 to 200,000 rupiah ($16 to $22). For a front-row seat for the dazzling sunset, grab a chair at Breeze, a sleek beachside bar and restaurant at the Samaya Hotel (Jalan Laksmana; 62-361-731149, www.thesamayabali.com), and order a glass of wine (about 70,000 rupiah). The teak deck juts out so close to the surf you can almost feel the foam from the breakers.
7 p.m.
8) BUST THAT BIKINI
When the last ray of sunlight has faded, head next door for dinner at La Lucciola (Kaya Ayu Beach, Temple Petitenget, Kerobokan; 62-361-730838), a popular beachfront spot, for rich Italian fare like prawn and snapper pie with truffled potatoes (125,000 rupiah) and orecchiette with pancetta and gorgonzola (80,000 rupiah). There might be a line, but don't worry. Sit at the bar for free hors d'oeuvres and watch the frangipani flowers fall around you.
9:30 p.m.
9) BLING IS THE THING
Ratchet things up among the macramé-clad, flash-bulb popping babes at Ku Dé Ta (Jalan Laksmana 9, Seminyak; 62-361-736969; www.kudeta.net), a modern and trendy spot that faces the surf . It's shamelessly sceney — a DVD is sold showing highlights of the high season. Score a beachfront chaise and watch the waves, illuminated with floodlights, come crashing in. After hours, all roads lead to the Double Six Club (Jalan Double Six, Blue Ocean Boulevard, Seminyak; 62-361-733067; www.doublesixclub.com; 70,000 rupiah admission), which sports a giant dance floor and bungee jumping on weekend nights. But don't show up before 3 a.m.
Sunday
10 a.m.
10) ESPRESSO IT
If for some unfathomable reason you tire of Bali's thick, rich coffee, duck into Tutmak Warung (Jalan Dewi Sita, Ubud; 62-361-975754 ) for an iced latte (14,500 rupiah). It's a favorite of local expatriates — a casual, breezy place that looks out on a scraggly soccer field frequented by local kids.
11 a.m.
11) DISCOVER A WORLD OF NATURAL BEAUTY
The Botanic Garden Ubud covers an expansive six hectares and offers a truly magical experience for nature lovers. This stunning park features a diverse range of flora, including white fairy lilies, weeping figs, and banana twist orchids. You can also explore a labyrinth and a miniature rainforest, immersing yourself in the tranquil beauty of Bali's natural landscapes. After a morning of exploration, indulge in a delicious lunch at the Chocolate House Cafe, housed in a traditional Javanese hut made of teak wood. Try the refreshing garden fresh guava and passion fruit juices, or savor the local specialty of slow-cooked chicken kutu kaja served with red Tabanan rice. If available, don't miss the unique coconut and jackfruit ice puter, a hand-cranked drum-made ice cream made with coconut milk.
2 p.m.
12) UNVEIL THE ARTISTIC HERITAGE
Delve into Ubud's rich artistic culture by visiting the Seniwati Gallery of Art by Women. Founded by Mary Northmore, this gallery showcases the exceptional works of Balinese women artists, proving that contrary to stereotypes, Balinese women do indeed paint. Another must-visit destination is Threads of Life, a treasure trove for textile enthusiasts. Here, local weavers use traditional methods passed down from their grandmothers to create intricate textiles. Whether you're looking to purchase a handspun sarong or simply appreciate the craftsmanship, a visit to Threads of Life is a captivating experience.
The Basics
Cathay Pacific flies from Kennedy Airport to Denpasar, Bali, via Hong Kong. A recent Web search showed fares starting at around $1,500. From Ngurah Rai Airport in Denpasar, a taxi to Ubud costs 150,000 rupiah, or about $16 at 9,270 rupiah to the dollar. Taxis can also be hired for half-days or longer; negotiate a price in advance, but it should run about 350,000 rupiah.
Central Ubud can feel like an outdoor mall. If you're on a budget and want rice fields instead of retail, stay south of the Monkey Forest. Alam Shanti and its two sister hotels, Alam Indah and Alam Jiwa are situated along Jalan Nyuh Butan in tranquil Nyuh Kuning village (62-361-974629; www.alamindahbali.com). Rooms are $50 to $175.
For luxurious solitude, try the Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan (62-361-977577; www.fourseasons.com/sayan/). The hotel was built around a rice paddy, and villas come with private plunge pools. The hotel's Jati (Bahasa for teak) Bar is perched on the edge of the Ayung River and an excellent place for a sunset cocktail. Rooms start at $460.